A Weekend in Monaco

A Weekend in Monaco

There is nothing quite as enticing as the sound of a weekend getaway in Monaco. 

The tiny and glitzy principality is the ideal setting for a weekend retreat. It shouldn’t come as a surprise that everything in this micronation is expensive and extravagant, which means it must be experienced at least once in your lifetime. It’s easily accessible from anywhere in the UK and Europe, the weather is beautiful, you can catch a glimpse of the lifestyles of the rich and discreetly famous, and you can even cycle to both Italy and France and be back in time for lunch. Tempting?

I’ve put together my guide for a weekend, filled with recommendations on where to stay, what to see and do, where to eat and how to make the most of your time in this seaside haven on the Mediterranean. 

DAY 1

Travelling to Monte Carlo is as easy as it is beautiful. Driving along the coastline from Italy or France (or arriving by boat) makes for a memorable and scenic trip, but the most spectacular introduction to the city has to be seen by helicopter. You can arrive in Monaco like a VIP by booking a heli-flight from Nice with Monacair, a private transportation company founded by Stefano Casiraghi, the late husband of Monaco’s Princess Caroline. Enjoy the seven-minute ride along the sparkling coastline before arriving at this world-class destination in style. For a more reasonable option, you can take the 25-minute train to Monte Carlo from Nice, or you can hop on the express bus from Nice Airport which runs frequently and takes you directly to Monte Carlo Central in 35 minutes. 

Upon your arrival, check into your room at the most prestigious luxury hotel in the Principality, the Fairmont Monte Carlo,  located in the heart of Monaco between the Mediterranean Sea and the legendary Casino de Monte-Carlo. You can read all about our stay at the Fairmont Monte Carlo here. Before you venture off and begin exploring, head up to the rooftop of the Fairmont Monte Carlo for lunch at the L’Horizon Deck, Restaurant and Champagne Bar. The terrace offers you an unbeatable sunny vista with 360 degree views of the Casino, the Opera House, the Prince’s Palace and the Mediterranean, as well as an extraordinary buffét lunch filled with local produce and of course, fresh seafood. Try the fine coffee and San Pellegrino, or turn it up a notch with a glass of champagne. Dress codes are more relaxed at breakfast, but the glitterati turn up in designer sunglasses and the latest leisurewear, even in the mornings.

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L’Horizon Deck, Restaurant and Champagne Bar

L’Horizon Deck, Restaurant and Champagne Bar

Kickstart your weekend with a trip up to Jardin Exotique for the most stunning views over the whole of Monaco. The gardens are generally neglected by most visitors to the Principality, simply because it is so far out of the way. Located on a rocky promontory at the north-western entrance of Monaco, jutting out over the Old Town and the Fontvieille area, most people just admire it from a distance whilst visiting the Palace Square without travelling up there, which is a bit of a shame. The gardens are located at the end of the number 2 bus line, which crosses most of the major tourist attractions in Monaco and is directly accessible from the Old Town, the port of Monaco, and from the Casino. 

If you don’t fancy walking up to admire the views, you can do a two-wheeled tour of Monaco. While the city-state is compact enough to be seen on foot, zipping around on a sturdy e-bike is far more entertaining. Monaco Bike Tours’ three-hour spins combine cycling and history so when you roll to a stop in front of the Princess Grace Rose Garden, you’ll learn all about how American actress Grace Kelly came to be a beloved princess of Monaco.

After your bike ride, you’d be remiss not to make the most of your Hotel’s rooftop pool, which also happens to be Nikki Beach Monte Carlo. Spend the afternoon splashing about soaking up the sunshine and sipping cocktails, in preparation for the night ahead.

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Before making your fortune tonight, head over to Café de Paris and claim a seat on the terrace to enjoy the best people watching experience you’ll ever have. Sitting right smack on the Place du Casino, which is pretty much the centre of everything, the Belle Epoque Café de Paris, built in 1868, is the ideal place to spy on all the other jet setters and locals.

What’s the point in coming all this way if you can’t break the bank at the world-famous Casino de Monte Carlo? Opened in 1863, the casino is elaborately fitted with rococo ceilings, marble columns and antique chandeliers. If you’re dreaming of riding around in one of the Ferraris you see parked out front, try your luck on the European roulette wheel, slot machines and blackjack table. Be sure to remember your passport, as Monégasque citizens are banned from gambling here.

Casino de Monte Carlo

Casino de Monte Carlo

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After making your way through the casino, it’s off to dinner a few minutes away at Italian restaurant Valentin. The excellent value and intimate atmosphere make this restaurant a local favourite. Monaco has no shortage of glitzy restaurants, but Hotel Metropole is a culinary powerhouse, with three restaurants from lauded French chef Joël Robuchon and chef Christophe Cussac. If you’re looking for other options, Bar Boeuf & Co at Monte Carlo Bay Hotel does an incredible sea bass and beef specialties. It is a smart dining hot spot presided over by legendary chef Alain Ducasse; or you can dine on the terrace at Le Vistamar at Hôtel Hermitage whilst enjoying the nautical themed interior and glorious seafood. 

DAY 2 

It’s time to throw on your swimsuit, kaftan and sunglasses and head up for breakfast at L’Horizon Deck, Restaurant and Champagne Bar. You have a choice of open air and covered seating, both with fabulous views, and you can enjoy the widest selection of breakfast buffets. Munch on pan au chocolat and sip frothy café au lait before settling into your chair to admire the scenery and super yachts pulling into the port.

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Start your day discovering the shops. Naturally, Monaco is host to all the usual fashion suspects. The high-end stores are mostly concentrated around the Cercle d’Or. The Le Metropole Shopping Center is a palatial underground shopping haven, fitted with chandeliers and marble floors, and is very Monaco with its high-end boutiques and antique stores. For something a little different but equally as elegant, the orange-tree-lined Rue Grimaldi offers various smaller boutiques peddling everything from home goods and tableware to leather leggings and the latest shoes.

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Inside the foyer of Hotel de Paris

Inside the foyer of Hotel de Paris

Opéra de Monte-Carlo

Opéra de Monte-Carlo

Next up: starting at the front of Opéra de Monte-Carlo, wander towards Monaco’s steeply perched medieval town, Le Rocher. As you make the curving descent to the port of La Condamine, a thriving district in the heart of Monaco, you may recognise the route, as you’ll be tracing track of Monaco’s Formula One Grand Prix. Here you can admire the rows of lavish yachts lining the piers of the harbour and guess which celebrities or business tycoons own them. 

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Once you reach the far end of the port, follow the signs to Palais Princier and climb up the zigzag rampe majeur into Le Rocher, Monaco’s Old Town. If you make good timing, you’ll reach the Place du Palais, the square in front of the Prince’s Palace, just in time to see the 11:55am changing of the guards where the Carabiniers perform meticulously executed military drills in a routine that has not changed in 100 years. This picturesque and historic plaza lies in the heart of Monaco’s old town and makes a great starting point for sightseeing.  

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Make your way over to enjoy and snap a shot of the expansive radiant views of the Port of Fontvieille and from here you can follow the signposted clifftop path towards Cathédrale de Monaco, where you can pay your respects to Grace Kelly. Her tomb in the cathedral's apse is often covered in fresh flowers from the queues of admirers. As you make your way around the bends of Avenue Saint-Martin, you’ll enter the spellbinding Jardins St-Martin, draped in lush greenery and adorned with statues and fountains. You gaze out to the Mediterranean, you’ll see the Musée Océanographique de Monaco soaring straight out of the cliff face. 

Cathédrale de Monaco

Cathédrale de Monaco

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After finding a charming spot in the Old Town for lunch and spend the rest of the afternoon unwinding poolside back at the Hotel or skip lunch in the Old Town and make your way back to the Hotel before hitting Larvotto Beach. Now that you’ve worked up an appetite, you’ll find plenty of fine local and Italian restaurants close by on the Avenue Princesse Grace. You could eat house-made pasta La Rose des Vents, but it’s the ultra-fresh seafood that pairs best with a glass of rosé and view of the azure waters.

Live up your last evening in Monaco in style, sipping decadent handcrafted cocktails at the Asian-inspired Buddha Bar, while some of the world’s best DJs spin the latest tunes; and then make your way over to Blue Bay for a romantic and memorable final dinner overlooking the Mediterranean. 

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WHEN TO GO

Monaco is influenced by oceanic climate and humid subtropical climate which contributes to its warm, dry summers and mild, wet winters. The most idyllic months to visit are May and June, when it’s comfortably warm. July and August are the hottest and busiest months. October and November are the wettest months and December and January are the coldest, although not unpleasant at an average of 12°C.

The world-renowned Formula One Grand Prix is held in May. Unless you’re an avid motor fan, avoid visiting at this time as every space in sight of the circuit, which runs round the port and casino, is inaccessible without a ticket. An arts festival is held every April, which sees performances by famous classical and contemporary dance troupes from all over the world.

TRANSPORT

Trains arrive every 30 minutes from Cannes, Nice, and Menton. The train station in the centre – next to Saint Devote church. Buses serve a variety of places within the principality. Most of them stop in Monte Carlo and the train station. There are also buses connecting Monaco with Menton and Nice. Walking – walking is probably the best way to get around Monaco and you can take advantage of the free public lifts linking the lower and higher streets.