La Vie Est Belle
Paris. The only city where you can step out of railway station and see the Seine, the Louvre, the Notre Dame, the Tuileries Gardens, the Place de la Concorde, and the beginning of the Champs Elysees.
What other city offers as much as you leave the train? You look around and every corner, every street, every boulevard is its own paragon of style, with monument-lined boulevards, lamplit bridges and art nouveau cafes.
Two of my closest girlfriends and I boarded the Eurostar from London to Paris on a chilly Friday eve, in early March, for a weekend getaway. We were aware of the violet yellow vest demonstrations that had been occurring across Paris, as well as the ongoing French Eurostar strikes; but this didn’t stop us. In saying this, I would strongly recommend that you do some research before your next trip to Paris, to follow up on the warnings and safety tips that are advised in order to avoid danger and hassles on your trip.
SATURDAY
We spent the weekend being completely enthralled by one of the trendiest and oldest neighbourhoods in the city, Le Marais. This district, in the 4th arrondissement, is dripping in old world elegance all the while maintaining a distinct village feel, as it is a favourite amongst the Parisians. We chose to stay in this area, as it has a great deal to offer. The first thing to do is to leave the main street rue de Rivoli and head for one of the two the parallel streets, which are rue Francois Miron or Rue du Roi de Sicile. Here you will come across vibrant street art and quirky boutiques. The Marais owes much of its charm to its magnificent architecture and rich history. The district has numerous 17th century private mansions, typically built with white freestone and featuring a large entrance through which a horse-drawn carriage could easily pass. Some of the houses are now listed monuments. Among the most beautiful mansions are the Hôtels de Sully and de Soubise, not to mention the Hôtel Salé, a magnificent building once frequented by the writer Honoré de Balzac and now home to the famous Picasso museum.
A landmark that you cannot possibly fail to notice is the Hôtel de Ville. This imposing building housing the Paris city council has a huge courtyard where many events are held all year round. A short distance from here is the romantic Place des Vosges dating to the Renaissance: it is Paris’s oldest square. This charming oasis of greenery is surrounded by red-brick buildings where illustrious names such as Victor Hugo, Madame de Sévigné and Colette once lived.
WHERE TO EAT IN LE MARAIS
Glou, l'Art de la Truffe and Robert et Louise, all of which put a contemporary twist on traditional French cuisine.
Le Bel Canto, on the banks of the Seine. Here you will not only be treated to fine French food, but the staff will also serenade you opera arias.
There are Michelin-starred restaurants such as L’Ambroisie on Place des Vosges as well as classic Parisian brasseries, such as Bofinger, Le petit Bofinger, Le Comptoir des Archives and Les Philosophes.
If you’re a fan of falafel, head to the best falafel in Paris is also to be found in the Marais: head for one of the little shops on Rue des Rosiers, like L’As du Fallafel.
If you’re like me and love all things sweet, Le Marais is your paradise, as some big-name pastry chefs have opened up shops here, from Yann Couvreur and Pierre Hermé to Christophe Michalak.
Our afternoon was filled admiring the gothic masterpiece that is the Notre Dame (this was pre the fire that broke out in April 2019); submitting ourselves to some retail therapy (with an obligatory visit to Zara) and promenading through the inner-city oasis of formal terraces, chestnut groves and lush lawns at the Jardin du Luxembourg.
One simply can’t visit Paris and not succumb to a banana Nutella crêpe; so we indulged as we continued to wander the cobblestone streets of the historic Latin Quarter, otherwise known as the heart of Paris’ intellectual life. From the tumble of food stalls on Rue Mouffetard to the stately Jardin des Plantes, the mighty Pantheon, and the historic Cluny Museum, there's a lot to see and do in this student & university quartier.
The ventured over to the quintessential symbol of Paris, the Eiffel Tower. Though you may have to wait for the lifts, it’s widely argued that you haven’t seen Paris until you’ve seen it from the top of the Eiffel Tower. This was my third trip to the glorious French capital, so luckily we didn’t feel compelled. However, if it is your first time in Paris, I would highly recommend you book tickets for the top online well in advance (to avoid the queues and to save time).
SUNDAY
Our final cultural experience for this trip was a visit to the Musée de l’Orangerie, early on Sunday morning. The Orangerie has gained a worldwide reputation as the home to Monet’s water lily exhibition, which cannot be detached from the walls where they were installed in 1927. The Musée de l’Orangerie underwent an enormous renovation and expansion, all whilst the paintings remained mounted. Those who know me will be aware that I don’t have a deep appreciation for art. Perhaps it is something I will grow into. Nevertheless, my experience at the Musée de l’Orangerie truly left a mark on me. I was left in complete awe of Monet’s Monet’s water lilies. Les Nymphéas is made up of 8 compositions of a series of 250 that are spread out among two oval rooms, which ultimately create a sense of infinite reflection of Monet’s light effects in a minimalistic setting. Visiting Monet’s masterpieces is essential during your visit to Paris.
PINK MAMMA
We had to make one more stop for lunch before heading back to London. With travel bloggers, fashionistas and food bloggers flocking, it appears that Pink Mamma (part of the Big Mamma restaurant group) is ‘the’ place to eat and be seen. The trattoria’s popularity on social media utterly skyrocketed as soon as it opened its doors in 2017; and after having been part of a bustling queue for just under an hour, it soon became apparent as to why there are so many eager fans. We were escorted to the top floor, a glasshouse bathed in green light and sprawling ivy, and seated in a remarkably comfortable booth. Pink Mamma serves delicious Italian food, utilising the freshest of ingredients and produce that they transport from Italian to Paris. Everything is home-made, from the pizza to the pasta and the ice-cream, and it certainly shows. My favourite dishes had to be the truffle pasta and the burrata. As with all Big Mamma restaurants, you can’t book in advance (unless you’re a party of 6 or more), so make sure you join the queue well in advance of 12pm.
